Hiking to Beveridge City, in the Inyo Mountain Wilderness

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Hiking a steep grade up the Snowflake Mine Trail. - Richard Elliott, by permission
Hiking a steep grade up the Snowflake Mine Trail. - Richard Elliott, by permission
Beveridge is a historic ghost camp located in an isolated canyon in the Inyo Mountains of California's Mojave Desert. This is one tough hike!

Beveridge is an old mining town that sits isolated high up in the Inyo Mountains of California’s Mojave Desert. In its heyday, it housed about 1,000 miners and even had a post office.

Today, it lies in ruins spread throughout Beveridge Canyon, between Keynot Peak and New York Butte. The canyon is overgrown with vegetation, and there is wildlife aplenty to be seen. In fact, so few people come up to Beveridge that the backpackers themselves might be an oddity to the wildlife.

Preparing For The Trip

This hike may be done in two days, if one is in peak physical condition. However, to truly enjoy the experience, it is best to plan for a four or five day excursion. Water is the biggest problem for this hike, as backpackers won’t be able to refill until they reach Beveridge. Thus, water is the most precious commodity on this trip. Take at least the equivalent of two gallons per person for this trip, but spread out to distribute the weight (i.e. use various small bottles). More than likely, these will be almost depleted by the time the backpacker reaches Beveridge.

Aside from that, pack light! Try to find the lightest tents, sleeping bags, and jackets that are reasonable according to projected weather conditions. If rain is expected, cancel the trip and wait for clear weather. Contrastly, avoid weather higher than 90 degrees (otherwise, just bring more water). This trip is best done during cooler weather, because water is used less in cooler temperatures. So, the best times for hiking to Beveridge is fall or spring, or a clear weekend in winter.

As for food; trail mix, or even a can of spam, beef jerky, etc. is ideal. If the backpacker insists on bringing gourmet backpacker food that needs heated water, it is advisable to consume these only after reaching Beveridge.

For clothing, wear lighter colors during warm weather, and a shemagh scarf or a brimmed hat to protect the head. Of course, always wear sunblock.

All other gear (flashlights, first aid kits, stoves, etc.) should be as light as possible. Trekking poles, hiking sticks, and knee braces will be very helpful on this trip.

Getting There

The most accessible route is via the Snowflake Mine Trail, which is still an extremely rough and strenuous hike that should be done only with experienced backpackers. The only reason that Snowflake Mine Trail is the most accessible is that it is the easiest trail to follow. However, it is faint enough to still be lost.

The small road that leads to Snowflake Mine Trail is accessible from Saline Valley Road. From the south, Saline Valley Road is accessible via Highway 190. From the north, Saline Valley Road can be reached by Highway 168 in Big Pine, California. About 2.3 miles east of Big Pine, take Waucoba Road, which will eventually turn into Saline Valley Road. Please consult a map beforehand, because there are forks in the road that can lead a person far off course.

From Saline Valley Road, take the fork (36°44'22.82"N, 117°51'2.02"W) heading west toward the Keynot Peak. One should be able to see the many switchbacks snaking up the side of the mountain. To the best of one’s ability, drive up those switchbacks as far as possible, since making it to the top will remove almost two miles from the hike. Unfortunately, the road is prone to landslides and it is likely that it will be impassable. If this is the case, drive as far as possible and park so that more fortunate people can pass. More than likely, no one else will be encountered on this trip.

If forced to park early, hike the remaining distance to where the road seemingly “ends”. The trail leading up the face of the mountain, affectionately called “The Great White Wall”, is faint but detectable, there are wilderness boundaries near it. This is where the hike officially begins, and this is a good place to camp for the first night.

Hiking a Typical Four Day Trip

Day 1 - Camp at the end of the road, next to the Great White Wall (36°43'30.80"N, 117°52'50.96"W).

Days 2 and 3 - Facing the Great White Wall, take the faint path that will eventually lead you about 1,500 feet straight up in less than one mile. There is very little vegetation and in hot weather, shade is very scarce. The trail finally reaches the top of the ridge and for about two miles it is easy-going compared to the more than 50 percent grade the backpacker just completed at the Great White Wall.

Finally, at 6,700 feet the trail heads back down to an altitude of 5,100 feet right into the Beveridge City mill site. While many report filling up their water around this area, it is downstream from some cyanide vats used for mining operations. It should be safe, but it is advisable to hike a little further upstream through the dense overgrowth to the other side of the cyanide vats before refilling. In other words, the backpacker fills his water at his or her own risk.

This canyon is the home of Beveridge City. The remains of one cabin, called Frenchy’s Cabin, might be usable to stay in, but more than likely, hikers will be using their own tents if they decide to stay in the canyon for the night. Alternatively, there is another faint trail near the site of an old tram, leading back up the mountain. This is the beginning of the Lonesome Miner trail. This trail and it leads to the Beveridge Ridge cabin, which is a welcoming, well-maintained cabin that any hiker having just completed this hike will find luxurious.

Day 4 – Return home. Because most of the trip is downhill on steep grades, backpackers should be careful about wearing out their knees. Knee braces, hiking sticks, or trek poles are all highly advisable for a trip like this.

Sources

Bureau of Land Management (BLM). Beveridge Canyon Trail Information. Ridgecrest Field Office. www.blm.gov

Andrew with petroglyphs in the Mojave Desert., Andrew Perry

Andrew Perry - Andrew has a B.A. in Philosophy & Journalism. He has worked professionally for newspapers, news sites, and local government.

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