Panamint City, Population Zero

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Posing in front of Panamint City's smelting stack - Andrew Perry
Posing in front of Panamint City's smelting stack - Andrew Perry
In the Panamint Mountains which border the western edge of Death Valley, there is a ghost town that is only accessible through a long and arduous hike.

Panamint City was actually a booming silver mining town in the late 1800s, sporting a population of almost 3,000 people at its peak. Today, it is nothing but ruins and the easiest way to access this ghost town is a long, arduous, and dangerous hike through a steep, rattlesnake-infested canyon.

This is the type of hike an elite few are even willing to consider, let alone execute. But for those elite few willing to do this hike, this article will prove to be a gold mine.

How To Get There

Open up Google Maps, Google Earth, MapQuest, or plug into a vehicle GPS the following city: Ballarat, California. Ballarat is another ghost town, but since its on the valley floor, it is actually cared for and has a very interesting museum. If looking for an interview or for more information about Panamint City, Ballarat's caretaker should be able to provide that.

From Ballarat, head north on the dirt road (called Indian Ranch Road) for about 1.5 miles and turn slightly right at the fork. This fork is Surprise Canyon Road, which after 3 miles or so ends at Chris Wicht's Camp. Park to the side of the road, gear up, and walk to the trailhead. The trailhead is just a little further up the canyon, and no vehicles are allowed past that point.

What To Bring

Hikers should bring the amount of food they think will be necessary for the duration of their stay. It is also proper etiquette to bring a little extra to donate to the cabin. Aside from that, a gallon of water should suffice for a spring day. Hikes like this are not a good idea for weather over 100 degrees.

For an ideal spring day, one ought to also pack the following:

  1. Waterproof hiking boots
  2. Light jacket
  3. Machete, or just gloves to move brush out of the way
  4. Extra socks
  5. Flashlight
  6. Sleeping bag
  7. Camera
  8. Wide brim hat or a shemagh scarf
  9. First aid kit
  10. Lighter or matches
  11. Water filter
  12. A map or satellite photo of the area, or a GPS with checkpoints marked beforehand
  13. Tent

These are just the basics of course, as some hikers prefer to bring a gun, a bottle of liquor, or a book. As long as all these are used responsibly, there won't be an issue when the occasional Death Valley park ranger shows up. It's also a good idea to pack light.

The Hike Itself

Hikers should hydrate themselves frequently, especially during the first 2.5 miles. This first half of the trip has two springs, and one lengthy set of waterfalls. The water is safe to drink, but it's always a good idea to use water filters to guard against diseases like giardia. Hikers should top off their water supply at the end of the final spring.

This first 2.5 miles, even with abundant water, is also the most strenuous. Rock climbing over waterfalls and hacking through overgrown brush, all while moving steadily uphill, is taxing. Throw in the occasional rattlesnake encounter, the hike is also unnerving. The rattlesnakes most frequently encountered are the red Panamint rattlesnake, and desert sidewinders.

After the first leg of the trip, the rest of the journey is dry until the destination is reached. This last half of the trip is like walking up a curvy, 2.5 mile long staircase. While not as taxing as the springs, this is arguably the toughest part of the hike, especially in hot weather. Hikers should take time out for an occasional break, and though water should be conserved during this leg of the trip, by all means keep hydrated. When Panamint City's smelting stack comes into view in the distance, the journey is almost done.

There are two habitable cabins available on a first-come, first-serve basis. One is up the canyon just before Panamint City (called Sourdough Gulch), and the other cabin is in Panamint City proper. The Sourdough Gulch cabin is affectionately called "The Hippy Cabin", and Panamint City's the "Panamint Hilton". If, for some reason, these are occupied, this is when the tent mentioned in the checklist will have to come into play.

Hikers are encouraged to enjoy the surrounding forest, be careful around the mines and mining equipment, and conduct themselves responsibly during their stay in Panamint City.

Andrew with petroglyphs in the Mojave Desert., Andrew Perry

Andrew Perry - Andrew has a B.A. in Philosophy & Journalism. He has worked professionally for newspapers, news sites, and local government.

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